:root {
  --ink: #1a1b18;
  --paper: #f3efe5;
  --paper-deep: #e6dfd1;
  --accent: #bd3b2e;
  --moss: #596451;
  --line: rgba(26, 27, 24, 0.18);
  --max: 1280px;
  --copy: 700px;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  font-family: Inter, ui-sans-serif, -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  font-size: 17px;
  line-height: 1.7;
}
body.lightbox-open { overflow: hidden; }
a { color: inherit; }
img { display: block; max-width: 100%; }

.reading-progress {
  position: fixed;
  z-index: 100;
  top: 0;
  left: 0;
  right: 0;
  height: 3px;
  pointer-events: none;
}
.reading-progress span { display: block; width: 0; height: 100%; background: var(--accent); }

.site-header {
  position: fixed;
  z-index: 50;
  top: 22px;
  left: 24px;
  right: 24px;
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  align-items: flex-start;
  pointer-events: none;
}
.brand, .journey-toggle {
  pointer-events: auto;
  border: 0;
  border-radius: 999px;
  color: #fff;
  background: rgba(18, 19, 17, 0.74);
  backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
  box-shadow: 0 4px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.12);
}
.brand {
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 46px;
  height: 46px;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 800;
  letter-spacing: .08em;
}
.journey-toggle {
  padding: 13px 18px;
  font: inherit;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 700;
  letter-spacing: .04em;
  cursor: pointer;
}
.journey-toggle span { display: inline-block; margin-left: 8px; transition: transform .25s ease; }
.journey-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] span { transform: rotate(180deg); }
.journey-nav {
  position: absolute;
  pointer-events: auto;
  top: 54px;
  right: 0;
  display: none;
  min-width: 210px;
  padding: 10px;
  border-radius: 18px;
  background: rgba(243, 239, 229, .96);
  box-shadow: 0 12px 44px rgba(0,0,0,.2);
  backdrop-filter: blur(18px);
}
.journey-nav.open { display: grid; }
.journey-nav a {
  padding: 8px 12px;
  border-radius: 10px;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 13px;
}
.journey-nav a:hover, .journey-nav a.active { color: #fff; background: var(--accent); }
.trip-menu {
  position: absolute;
  top: 0;
  left: 58px;
  pointer-events: auto;
}
.trip-menu summary {
  display: block;
  padding: 13px 18px;
  border-radius: 999px;
  color: #fff;
  background: rgba(18, 19, 17, .74);
  backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
  box-shadow: 0 4px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.12);
  cursor: pointer;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 700;
  letter-spacing: .04em;
  list-style: none;
}
.trip-menu summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.trip-menu summary span { margin-left: 7px; }
.trip-menu nav {
  position: absolute;
  top: 54px;
  left: 0;
  display: none;
  min-width: 190px;
  padding: 10px;
  border-radius: 18px;
  background: rgba(243, 239, 229, .97);
  box-shadow: 0 12px 44px rgba(0,0,0,.2);
  backdrop-filter: blur(18px);
}
.trip-menu[open] nav { display: grid; }
.trip-menu nav a {
  padding: 8px 12px;
  border-radius: 10px;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 13px;
}
.trip-menu nav a:hover, .trip-menu nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: #fff; background: var(--accent); }
.trip-menu summary:focus-visible, .journey-toggle:focus-visible, .brand:focus-visible,
.journey-nav a:focus-visible, .trip-menu nav a:focus-visible, .back-to-top:focus-visible,
.header-link:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid #e9b448; outline-offset: 4px; }
.back-to-top {
  position: fixed;
  z-index: 30;
  right: 22px;
  bottom: 22px;
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  gap: 7px;
  padding: 10px 15px;
  border: 1px solid rgba(26,27,24,.22);
  border-radius: 999px;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: rgba(243,239,229,.94);
  box-shadow: 0 4px 18px rgba(0,0,0,.12);
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 700;
  backdrop-filter: blur(12px);
}
.header-link {
  pointer-events: auto;
  padding: 12px 16px;
  border-radius: 999px;
  color: #fff;
  background: rgba(18, 19, 17, .74);
  backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
  box-shadow: 0 4px 20px rgba(0,0,0,.12);
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 700;
}

.hero {
  position: relative;
  display: flex;
  min-height: 100svh;
  align-items: flex-end;
  overflow: hidden;
  color: #fff;
  background: #252821;
}
.hero-image, .hero-shade { position: absolute; inset: 0; }
.hero-image {
  background-position: center;
  background-size: cover;
  transform: scale(1.02);
  animation: hero-arrive 1.3s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1) both;
}
.hero-shade { background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(12,14,11,.14) 25%, rgba(12,14,11,.76) 100%); }
.hero-content {
  position: relative;
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 18vh 0 9vh;
}
.kicker, .footer-kicker, .intro-label {
  margin: 0 0 18px;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  font-size: 11px;
  font-weight: 800;
  letter-spacing: .22em;
}
.hero h1 {
  margin: 0;
  max-width: 900px;
  font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  font-size: clamp(76px, 14vw, 205px);
  font-weight: 400;
  line-height: .72;
  letter-spacing: -.075em;
}
.hero h1 em { padding-left: .32em; font-weight: 400; }
.hero-meta {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 12px 32px;
  margin-top: 54px;
  font-size: 13px;
  font-weight: 650;
  letter-spacing: .03em;
}
.scroll-cue {
  position: absolute;
  right: 4vw;
  bottom: 9vh;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 12px;
  font-weight: 700;
  letter-spacing: .08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}
.scroll-cue span { margin-left: 8px; }

.story-intro {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: .55fr 1.45fr 1fr;
  gap: 6vw;
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 120px 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.intro-copy { font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: clamp(25px, 3vw, 42px); line-height: 1.28; }
.intro-copy > :first-child { display: none; }
.intro-copy div { display: inline; }
.intro-copy br, .intro-copy div:nth-child(n+3) { display: none; }
.trip-stats { margin: 0; }
.trip-stats div { padding: 14px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.trip-stats dt { font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.trip-stats dd { margin: 3px 0 0; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 24px; line-height: 1.25; }

.route-graphic {
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 56px 0 72px;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.route-heading { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: baseline; gap: 8px 20px; }
.route-heading .intro-label { margin: 0; }
.route-heading h2 { margin: 0; font: 400 clamp(30px, 4vw, 48px)/1 Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; }
.route-heading > p:last-child { margin: 0; color: rgba(26, 27, 24, .62); font-size: 12px; }
.route-stops { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0; margin: 34px 0 0; padding: 4px 4px 12px; overflow-x: auto; scrollbar-width: thin; list-style: none; }
.route-stops li { display: flex; flex: 0 0 auto; align-items: center; }
.route-stops li:not(:last-child)::after { content: ""; width: clamp(30px, 5vw, 76px); height: 1px; flex: 0 0 auto; margin: 0 12px; background: repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, var(--line) 0 5px, transparent 5px 10px); }
.route-stop { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 9px; white-space: nowrap; font: 18px Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; }
.route-stop::before { content: ""; width: 10px; height: 10px; flex: 0 0 10px; border: 2px solid var(--ink); border-radius: 50%; background: var(--paper); box-shadow: 0 0 0 4px var(--paper); }
.route-stops li:first-child .route-stop::before, .route-stops li:last-child .route-stop::before { background: var(--ink); }

.story { padding-bottom: 100px; }
.day-marker {
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 150px auto 72px;
  scroll-margin-top: 80px;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--ink);
}
.day-marker span { display: inline-block; padding-top: 16px; font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; letter-spacing: .2em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.day-marker h2 { margin: 10px 0 0; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: clamp(52px, 8vw, 112px); font-weight: 400; line-height: .9; letter-spacing: -.05em; }
.prose {
  width: min(var(--copy), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 52px auto;
  font-size: clamp(17px, 1.6vw, 21px);
}
.prose .source-title { font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: 1.45em; line-height: 1.25; }
.prose p, .prose div { margin: 0 0 1.1em; }
.media {
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 72px auto;
}
.media img, .gallery img, .columns img {
  width: 100%;
  height: auto;
  background: var(--paper-deep);
  cursor: zoom-in;
}
figcaption {
  max-width: 640px;
  margin-top: 12px;
  font-size: 13px;
  line-height: 1.5;
  color: rgba(26,27,24,.72);
}
figcaption p { margin: 0; }
.gallery {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: clamp(10px, 1.4vw, 20px);
  width: min(1500px, calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 80px auto;
  align-items: start;
}
.gallery figure { min-width: 0; margin: 0; }
.gallery img { display: block; height: auto; max-height: none; object-fit: contain; }
.gallery figcaption { padding-left: 2px; }
.columns {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(340px, 100%), 1fr));
  gap: 16px;
  width: min(var(--max), calc(100% - 48px));
  margin: 72px auto;
  align-items: start;
}
.columns > .prose, .columns > .media, .columns > .gallery { width: 100%; margin: 0; }
.columns .gallery { display: contents; }
.columns .gallery figure { margin: 0; }

.reveal { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(22px); transition: opacity .7s ease, transform .7s ease; }
.reveal.visible { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
.site-footer {
  padding: 140px 24px 48px;
  color: #f8f3e9;
  background: #20231e;
  text-align: center;
}
.site-footer h2 { max-width: 900px; margin: 0 auto 42px; font-family: Georgia, serif; font-size: clamp(48px, 8vw, 110px); font-weight: 400; line-height: .95; letter-spacing: -.055em; }
.site-footer > a { display: inline-block; padding: 13px 20px; border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.35); border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; font-size: 13px; }
.credit { margin: 110px 0 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,.55); font-size: 11px; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; }

.lightbox {
  width: 100vw;
  max-width: none;
  height: 100vh;
  max-height: none;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 40px 70px;
  border: 0;
  color: #fff;
  background: rgba(12,13,11,.96);
}
.lightbox[open] { display: grid; place-items: center; }
.lightbox::backdrop { background: rgba(12,13,11,.96); }
.lightbox img { max-width: 100%; max-height: calc(100vh - 80px); object-fit: contain; }
.lightbox button { position: fixed; z-index: 2; border: 0; color: #fff; background: transparent; cursor: pointer; }
.lightbox-close { top: 20px; right: 28px; font-size: 36px; }
.lightbox-prev, .lightbox-next { top: 50%; font-size: 28px; }
.lightbox-prev { left: 25px; }
.lightbox-next { right: 25px; }
.lightbox-count { position: fixed; bottom: 10px; left: 0; right: 0; text-align: center; font-size: 12px; }

@keyframes hero-arrive { from { opacity: 0; transform: scale(1.08); } to { opacity: 1; transform: scale(1.02); } }

@media (max-width: 760px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .site-header { top: 14px; left: 14px; right: 14px; }
  .hero-content { width: calc(100% - 28px); padding-bottom: 12vh; }
  .hero h1 { font-size: clamp(70px, 27vw, 130px); }
  .hero-meta { max-width: 75%; margin-top: 40px; gap: 4px 18px; }
  .scroll-cue { right: 18px; bottom: 30px; writing-mode: vertical-rl; }
  .story-intro { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 28px; width: calc(100% - 36px); padding: 84px 0; }
  .intro-copy { font-size: 27px; }
  .trip-stats { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0 20px; }
  .trip-stats div:last-child { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
  .route-graphic { width: calc(100% - 36px); padding: 42px 0 52px; overflow: hidden; }
  .route-heading { gap: 10px 14px; }
  .route-heading > p:last-child { flex-basis: 100%; }
  .route-stops { align-items: flex-start; }
  .route-stop { font-size: 16px; }
  .route-stops li:not(:last-child)::after { width: clamp(22px, 8vw, 60px); }
  .back-to-top { right: 12px; bottom: 12px; }
  .header-link { padding: 10px 13px; font-size: 12px; }
  .day-marker { width: calc(100% - 36px); margin-top: 100px; }
  .prose, .media, .columns { width: calc(100% - 36px); }
  .gallery { width: calc(100% - 28px); gap: 8px; }
  .columns { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 8px; }
  .lightbox { padding: 52px 12px; }
  .lightbox-prev, .lightbox-next { top: auto; bottom: 16px; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  *, *::before, *::after { animation: none !important; transition: none !important; }
  .reveal { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
}